Metal Roofing

Prefinished metal roofing is offered in a broad palette of attractive colors with long-life coatings that do not support the growth of moss, mildew or fungus. Metal panels are lightweight, yet strong enough to withstand severe weather—snow easily slides off the roof. Finally, metal roofing lasts longer, conserves energy, and requires virtually no maintenance.

Since metal weighs only 1/3 as much as shingles, you can often attach metal panels without tearing off your existing shingle roof. This eliminates the cost and problems of disposing of the old shingles. The best way to do this is to attach 1″ x 4″ or 2″ x 4″ furring strips at 24″ o/c parallel to the eave and ridge. Check local codes to determine if tearing off shingles is required in your area.

You may use either screws or nails—both color matched to the color of your roof. Screw fasteners are designed to go into the flat part of the panel. Nails MUST GO in the high rib of the panel. Fasteners are typically spaced 24″ o/c.

Yes. Among the types of insulation that can be used are fan-fold foam insulation or foil-faced plastic bubble insulation. You can save utility costs by making your roof more energy efficient.

No more noisier than the soothing patter that you hear now. The metal roof panels are installed over felt paper and plywood on the outside, with a layer of sound-deadening insulation and your drywall ceiling on the inside. These materials help deaden the sound.

This could very well by the last roof you will ever put on your home, barn, shed or hobby shop—with life expectancies that can easily exceed 30 years. Corrosion resistant substrates and long-life finishes ensure long-term performance, minimal maintenance and life-cycle cost savings.

Metal roofing and siding can be easily installed using standard hand tools such as a screw gun, hammer, metal snips, caulk gun, pliers, chalk line and tape measure. Cutting metal panels is best accomplished with an electric metal shear; however, panels may be easily cut with a circular saw with a metal-cutting abrasive blade. Standing seam roof systems require hand or mechanical seaming tools.

A rubber membrane underlayment is always a good idea as an additional barrier against water infiltration. You should always use one under a valley condition or any other detail that is likely to be difficult to seal. A rubber underlayment is also recommended at the eave and up to at least 24″ past the exterior wall in a northern climate to help prevent water from entering the roof due to ice damming. It should also be used on very low slopes and when the metal panels are not sealed at their side laps.

No. A metal roof will not make a building more susceptible to a lightning strike. Lightning will tend to strike the highest object in a given area, regardless of what that object is made of. A metal roof can actually be beneficial in the event of a lightning strike due to being a non-combustible material.

No. Standard lead pencils, or those made with graphite, will accelerate the corrosion of the metal near the mark. You can use masking tape and mark on the tape to prevent corrosion—plus, masking tape is easier to see.